On the north side of the Rio Mondego, off the Coimbra-Sul exit of the Lisbon-Porto motorway, this establishment has been under the same ownership since 1730. One of only a small handful of Relais & Chateaux properties in Portugal, this one is certainly worth a detour. Not only is the dining notable, but for those who yearn for a heaping serving of whimsy, this is a splendid choice.

A grand driveway under the shade of giant sequoias planted by the Duke of Wellington, an early guest, leads up to this 18th-century palace converted into a 54-room hotel. King Miguel of Portugal was also a guest here, perhaps part of the inspiration behind the regality that continues today. In an effort to keep the encroaching city at bay and please guests, too, a pitch-and-putt golf course and a driving range separate the hotel from the busy road. Passing under a coat of arms and a tiaralike balustrade, guests enter a traditional foyer recast in eclectic style; two Burmese bowls finished in persimmon lacquer sit below Francis Bacon-inspired portraits of the palace's original owners.

Trimmed with elaborate molding and lit with a glittering chandelier, the Arcadas da Capela restaurant is a splendid setting for traditional Portuguese fare. Less formal meals from a spicy Latin menu are served in an indoor arcade brightly lit with sunshine and overlooking the gardens, and in summer, guests dine on the garden terrace. Evenings are often spent in a baronial lounge with a fireplace. The intimate paneled library holds one of the palace's most quixotic treasures: a complete bound set of Paris Match magazines dating to 1951. More distinguished leather-bound literature sits on shelves that climb to the 8-m-high ceiling.

Spagoers indulge in basic treatments at the Bamboo Spa or partake in relaxation opportunities in the outdoor pool, sauna, steam room or gym. A tennis court is on the premises, annex accommodations flank an attractive heated indoor pool ringed by wooden chaise longues, and meeting space serves 100 people. Unfortunately, no pets are permitted.

Guest rooms in the palace comprise three standards, four superiors and the opulent King's Room. The rest are in two parallel wings in back. Superiors are larger than standards and have mostly king beds and room for either sitting areas or extra beds. All are traditionally outfitted and equipped with radios, TVs, minibars, air-conditioning and combination baths. Mahogany furnishings match the dark wood floors, and warm-hued carpets provide fine accents. Rooms 1 to 10 are the best choices among standards, as these have water sluicing by in the adjacent canal. Twelve is a wonderful studio with a four-poster king bed, a large sitting area, and a pair of large French windows that open onto the garden. The top choice is the King's Room, which features a knotty-pine floor, high-quality rugs, a big desk and a fireplace. The decor ranges from minimalist with modern artwork and bonsai trees in the newer rooms to traditional with Oriental rugs and antique furnishings, so request rooms according to your style preference. The style favorite of many is that of the Palace quarters. Business guests should state their interest in high-speed Internet access in advance, as not all rooms boast this service.

Room service operates during regular hours. Although often booked by savvy business travelers, this hotel and its polite staff make vacationers feel equally welcome. During the weekends, the guest rooms and the best tables in the restaurant are usually booked months in advance, so call ahead.